Stonehaven Family Farm

Stonehaven Farm is a gem of a farm stay in a gem of a spot. Westport, where Stonehaven is situated, is in the Southeastern corner of Massachusetts, 60 miles south of Boston, and 30 miles southeast of Providence, Rhode Island. Only minutes away from Stonehaven Farm, Horseneck Beach State Reservation is a beautiful, 2-mile long beach on Buzzards Bay with 600 acres of salt marsh and sand dunes. Horseneck Beach is most popular in summer, but the off-season holds its own kind of magic. I was there in late September, when the oblique fall light shone golden on the dune grass. To my surprise, the bay water was plenty warm for me to venture in for some delighted wave jumping. The public washrooms were closed for the season, and only a handful of cars littered the windy parking lot, but Horseneck Beach in September felt like heaven to me.

Back at Stonehaven Farm, the guest suite has a big, airy bedroom with a cathedral ceiling and a view past gently sloping sheep pasture and all the way down to the wide Westport River. Windows on all sides, plus a sliding door to a small balcony, let in the ocean breeze. The beds are made with crisp white sheets and an off-white blanket for warmth -- it's woven from the wool of the farm’s own Dorset Horn sheep, a dual-purpose heritage breed good for both meat and wool. 

In 1995, Virginia Merlier moved to Stonehaven Farm from Cambridge, Mass., where she worked in Financial Administration at Harvard for 15 years after a shorter stint as an assistant professor of Medieval French literature. Virginia grew up on a 312-acre farm on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, where her father also raised Horned Dorsets. Originally from France, Virginia’s father came to America when he was 18, marrying Virginia’s mother in 1941. At that time in France, Virginia tells me, having a farm was a dream common to many. Though her father was raised in the city and studied business in college, he decided to buy a farm in America. He essentially learned to farm from USDA pamphlets, says Virginia, and he did well at it, supporting their family of 5 and sending Virginia and her sister to college.

Virginia tells me that she always wanted to get back to farming, but her father wouldn’t give or sell the farm to her because she was a girl. Once she had her own 7.5 acres, Virginia started gardening and raising chickens, then sheep, and finally ducks. Today she has a flock of 20 permanent sheep, which are kept in line by a friendly border collie named Cody. Virginia tells me, “You look at a happy sheep and it’s almost meditative.” The 35 free-range chickens on the farm include American heritage breeds like Delawares, Rhode Island Reds, New Hampshires, and Ameraucanas. The wide variety of breeds presents a pretty palette of brown, light peach, and light green shell colors in the gathering basket. Virginia sells eggs, in addition to seasonal vegetables and berries, to customers who stop by the house.  Lambs or half lambs for the freezer and ducks are available by order, as is yarn processed by Bartlett Yarns in Maine. Virginia started offering a farm stay in 2009, after being inspired during an agritourism conference by a keynote talk by charismatic Beth Kennett, who has hosted guests at Liberty Hill Farm in VT since the 1980s.

Agritourism beyond Stonehaven Farm includes the Westport farmers market every Saturday, pick-your-own berries at Berry Hill Farm, a brewery called Just Beer, the Westport Rivers Winery and Coastal Wine Trail, and Orr’s Farm Stand. Virginia is a generous and informative guide to the area. Though Westport’s population swells with beachgoers in the summer, the town has maintained its unspoiled feel, with beautifully preserved 1700s homes and buildings and strong farming and fishing communities. The Point, where the fishing boats dock, is an active lobster port. Around 12 percent of Westport’s current farmland is protected from development thanks to groups like the Westport Land Conservation Trust.  Westport prides itself in being the home of a variety of turnip called the Macomber turnip, which has its own dedicated historical marker. Dairy and crops like potatoes, squash, corn, and hay are also important. A not-to-miss Westport edible is Hannahbells, a soft-ripened, bell-shaped cheese crafted at the Shy Brothers Farm from the milk of the brothers’ 120 grazing cows. While the farm is not open to the public, the cheese is available at specialty shops and by mail. The farm also forms a lovely picture for those who drive by.

If you go:

A spacious guest suite sleeps four on one double and two twin beds, and offers a fantastic view. The suite is $150/night for two, plus $25 for each child. The suite includes a mini-fridge and large private bathroom with a Jacuzzi tub. Children are welcome to stay in the main suite or down the hall, in a smaller guestroom with two twin beds. Virginia is an accomplished cook, and she invites guests to share breakfast (included) and dinner ($35/person) with her. Almost all of the dishes she makes – from roast chicken with fingerling potatoes to juicy fresh melon for dessert -- are raised right on the farm when the season allows. Guests are welcome to harvest all the garden vegetables they can eat, and to help with gardening, egg collecting, and caring for the sheep. Contact Virginia for rates.

Web: http://www.stonehavenfamilyfarm.com

Phone: (508) 636-1361

Email: vmerlier@verizon.net

Virginia Merlier

Stonehaven Farm

1506 Drift Rd

Westport, MA 02790

New England Farm Stays!

The first week of October, I was lucky enough to visit 11 farm stays in Vermont, New Hampshire, and Massachusetts during fall colors in New England, one of the most beautiful displays of nature anywhere. A bold statement perhaps, though thousands of "leaf peepers" agree. Here's a roundup of the 11 farms I visited; I'll profile each of them in more detail later. Please excuse the lack of photos; I don't have good internet right now. These farms are wonderful spots, combining awesome scenery with delicious farm-fresh food and the chance to milk a cow or pick some bright green chard. There's something here for every type and every budget.

I started off by tagging along on a farm tour at Walpole Valley Farm in Walpole, New Hampshire. Farmer Chris Caserta showed off his pastured poultry and livestock operation on 100 acres. The farm is gorgeous, set in a valley with a huge old classic red barn, which actually doesn't get much use because the animals spend their days and nights out on the pasture. After the farm tour, Chris' sister and innkeeper Jackie Caserta showed me the elegant 3-bedroom Inn at Valley Farms and plied me with fresh-baked cookies. Jackie also rents two 3-bedroom cottages and a 3-bedroom farmhouse. Children are welcome in the cottages and farmhouse; the inn rooms accommodate guests 12 and up. Inn guests enjoy a farm-fresh, candlelight breakfast. Cottage and farmhouse guests are supplied with kitchen pantry basics and are welcome to gather veggies from Jackie's lush, no-till garden. Rates are $175-220 for two.

I visited Shearer Hill Farm in Wilmington, VT next, a comfy, six-bedroom B&B and farm with a small herd of grass-fed beef cattle and maple sugaring in the spring. Patti and Bill Pusey moved to Vermont from Long Island 40 years ago. They have now raised seven children in the farmhouse they worked for years to restore, and their B&B is in its 20th year. Every morning for breakfast, Patti and Bill serve apples baked with their own maple syrup and topped with vanilla ice cream. Rates are $85/night for single and $115/night for double occupancy. Children are welcome. 

Kenburn Orchards B&B in Shelburne, MA, offers three lovely rooms, decorated with art from local craftspeople, in a restored colonial farmhouse that has been in owner Susan Flaccus' family since 1924. Susan's husband Larry wanted to be a farmer in his youth; he and Susan have made a second career out of farming Christmas trees and berries on their scenic 150-acre farm. Guests shouldn't miss a walk through the farm's abandoned apple orchard to spot birds, beavers, and coyotes. Susan and Larry cook up a big breakfast that includes homemade breads and muffins topped with their own fruit preserves. What's not from Kenburn Orchards comes from nearby farms. Rates are $139-169 for one or two.

Currier Brook Farm in Wentworth, NH is a diverse, 20-acre farm with one B&B room and plenty of space for camping along the Baker River. Carol Friedrich and her daughter Amy raise organic vegetables, free-range laying hens, Icelandic sheep, and heritage pigs, mostly for their own use, and they are interested in building and sharing their set of sustainable living skills. The Friedrichs welcome interns and work-traders in addition to B&B and camping guests. A rail-trail for hiking and skiing goes right through the farm.

I met up with a couple of dear friends from Montreal for a 2-day stay at D Acres in Dorchester, NH, an organic farm, "educational homestead," and hostel where I lived and worked in 2005. It was good to be back and see all the new buildings and the results of years of building the soil: kale tall as trees and cabbages as big as babies. Guests choose from three private bedrooms ($55-65) in the impressive, modern, green-built farmhouse, floor space in the yoga room ($15/person), or tent camping on platforms ($10/person). Guests are also welcome to share dinner and breakfast with residents ($10/person per meal). Meals are 95% organic and centered around fresh D Acres veggies. The farm sits on 180 acres, mostly forested, with hiking/skiing trails throughout, and artistic, handmade greenhouses, animal houses, and outdoor kitchens made of wood and cob (a mix of sand, clay, and straw). Rumney Rocks -- a great rock climbing area -- is only 10-minutes away.

After leaving D Acres, I visited with Jinny Cleland at her Four Springs Farm in Royalton, VT, an organic vegetable, small fruit, and pastured poultry farm on 70 acres, with a small campground (each secluded site is $25 for up to 5 guests, and includes a fire ring and picnic table), and a rustic cabin rental (no electricity, $65 for up to 5 guests). Guests are welcome to tag along with chores and u-pick berries and vegetables. Jinny is passionate about sharing her land and beautiful Green Mountains view with the public in a way that's accessible and affordable for families. On Saturdays, you can also find Jinny at the Norwich Farmer's Market.

At Liberty Hill Farm in Rochester, VT, I chatted with Beth Kennett as she and her friend Lois danced around the kitchen cooking up dinner for 15 guests. Beth is a pioneer and a charismatic spokeswoman for Vermont agritourism -- she's been hosting guests in her farmhouse since 1984. Beth loves to cook, and she treats guests to two homemade meals a day featuring Cabot cheddar and food from her neighbors' farms. Liberty Hill Farm is a dairy farm (and proud member of the Cabot Dairy Cooperative) that's been owned by Beth and Bob Kennett since 1977, and their two sons have now come back to work on the farm as well. Guests are welcome to tag along for chores and try their hand at milking a cow, and the farm abuts both the White River and the Green Mountain National Forest. Rates (includes lodging, breakfast, and dinner) are $98 per adult, $75 per teenager, $54 for children under 12, and kids 2 and under stay free.

Echo Hill Farm in Craftsbury, VT is a 4000-tap maple sugaring operation owned by Louise and Randi Calderwood. The Calderwoods are about to open a new sugar shack that will serve up pancakes topped by the farm's own maple syrup. They also rent out a sweet 3-bedroom guesthouse ($130/night, 2 night minimum stay), and guests are welcome to help with maple sugaring in the spring. Louise is a great person to chat with about farming and farm policy, as she served for 8 years as Vermont's Deputy Secretary of Agriculture, and has worked as both a farm consultant and a dairy extension agent. 

Stony Brook Farm in Hyde Park, VT (near Stowe) is a small farm with a managerie of goats, geese, chickens, cows, and turkeys that pose together like a barnyard scene from a childrens’ book. Tom and Carole Younkman have converted their blacksmith shop into a comfy two-bedroom cottage (sleeps up to 6; pets are welcome), complete with a kitchen, deck, and grill. Guests are welcome to help feed the animals and gather eggs. Carole also makes goatsmilk soap that visitors can find in the farm's little gift shop.

At Vermont Grand View Farm, I got to meet Romney sheep, angora goats, and mohair rabbits so sweet and soft it made me giggle. Shepherd Kim Goodling sends her animals' fiber to be spun into wonderful yarn that you can buy at her farm store, through an online shop, or by becoming a member of her fiber CSA. Kim hosts B&B guests in two bedrooms ($85-95) of the older, 1700s wing of her family's beautiful home. Kim cooks breakfasts with organic ingredients from her greenhouse and garden and from other local farms. She also offers dinner with advanced noticed ($25/person). The farm has a calendar of fiber retreats, summer day camps, and natural dye classes scheduled throughout the summer.

My final stop was to Trevin Farms in Sudbury, VT, which was founded by two chefs who escaped north to Vermont from urban Massachusetts. Troy and Kevin are devoted caretakers of their herd of Nubian goats, and they are passionate about cheesemaking. Most of the guests who stay in the B&B's three plush bedrooms ($105-$165) take advantage of the cheesemaking package ($295-$395, including lodging), which includes a cheesemaking class, dinner, and a bundle of fresh chevre for guests to take home. Visitors are also free to pick vegetables from the garden, gather eggs from the hens, and learn to hitch Tyrone the draft horse.

Thanks to Sarene, Noah, D Acres, and the Viking Motel for hosting me on this whirlwind New England tour. I also appreciate the farmers who told me they would have hosted me if they hadn't been all booked up. And thanks to all of these farmers who took the time to meet with me during their busiest time of year and who fed me with scones, baked apples, cookies, and fresh berries. Such generosity!

News from Mass. and Vermont

Land in Massachusetts is highly vulnerable to development. One way that some farms have been successful in keeping their land in agriculture is by converting to wineries, and by incorporating agritourism. The Boston Globe featured several Massachusetts wineries in an article by Brian Benson. A quote from the article: “For me, it was whatever we could do to preserve the farm,’’ said Adelman of his decision to switch from baling bundles of hay to harvesting rows of grapes. “We were just trying different things to see what’s sustainable these days to promote local agriculture, open space, and conservation practices.’’ -------------------------------------- Adams Farm, a five generations-old Vermont agritourism farm, is closing. Here's the sad story, by Jaime Cone from the Brattleboro Reformer. And here, an excerpt:

Mancivalano said that agritourism can be a sustainable business in Vermont and that it was only her own special circumstances that prevented her from keeping her head above water in these challenging financial times.

She said that while agritourism is a relatively new term, the practice has been a part of her family's farm for generations.

The Adams family started the farm in 1865. In the beginning it was a very typical Vermont farm, she said -- very diversified.

In the 1880s, it became trendy for wealthy people from New York City to visit the country, Mancivalano said, and the farm was opened up to boarders who wanted to escape city life and enjoy the beautiful scenery and fresh food.

In 1970, Mancivalano's parents purchased the farm and decided to close it to the public in order to focus on the dairy business. They began hosting sleigh rides in 1979 when dairy prices began to drop, taking skiers for rides through the woods on snowy evenings when they returned from the slopes.

The idea was a success, and in three years, the family bought two additional teams of Belgian draft horses to accommodate the growing number of visitors.

"We've been doing that ever since," Mancivalano said. Her father, now 69, still does the sleigh rides though it's becoming difficult for him.

Jill Adams Mancivalano sits with her dog Jed with the Adams Farm in Wilmington in the background. (Zachary P. Stephens/Reformer)

Farmers turn to agritourism to stay afloat

Vermont's dairies are struggling. Wholesale milk prices are the lowest they've been in 30 years -- low enough that the price doesn't even cover operating costs. An article in the Brattleboro Reformer talks about the dire plight of Vermont dairies, which are trying crop diversification and agritourism to remain solvent. Reporter Chris Garofolo highlights the Guilford, VT Gaines Farm which started a corn maze, and other farms that have turned to online sales, farm stands, and summer farm camps. Garofolo ends the article with this: "The Green Mountain State was home to 11,206 dairy farms in 1947, but that number has dropped steadily the last half century. There are now fewer than 1,500 dairy operations in Vermont." -------------------------------- Apple orchards in New York seem to be in a better situation, as all the rain has made for larger-than-normal and high-quality apples. U-pick sales, additionally, are up. Though the Poughkeepsie Journal article "Pick-your-own season looks promising for local orchards," by Sarah Bradshaw, still mentions the steady decline in the state's apple orchard acerage: "[in 2007] the state had 1,350 apple farms and about 50,000 acres, down from 53,000 acres in 2002 and 66,000 acres in 1997," it is, on the whole, very optimistic.

Photo caption: Apples ripen at Terhune Orchards in Salt Point. Thousands are expected to descend on the Hudson Valley to pick and purchase apples from local orchards. (Karl Rabe/Poughkeepsie Journal) --------------------- Elsewhere in the northeast, the Blue Heron Organic Farm in Lincoln, MA is holding a festival and fundraiser in order to stay afloat and to fund a new greenhouse. The fundraiser will feature music, hayrides, and workshops.